Think Bambangan, Think Sabah

What is Bambangan?
It is a seasonal fruit, is sometimes described as a wild mango, when ripe has thick brown skin and fibrous yellow flesh and gives out a very strong sweet aroma. I don't know why some people say Bambangan gives out a pungent smell. According to dictionary.reference.com, pungent means "acutely distressing to the feelings or mind" which is NOT the case for me. I LOVVVEEE Bambangan, love to eat it, love to smell it, is acutely COMFORTING to my feelings and mind.

Bambangan which is about 80% ripe is used to make pickle Bambangan. The young fruit is smaller in size than the ripe ones, the skin is brown and hard, and the flesh is white. This is most suitable to be used for cooking the "Pinasakan" dish, a favourite local delicacy, that incorporates young Bambangan fruit in its recipe.

Where is it found?
Some people say it is found ONLY in Sabah Borneo (???). When it comes to Bambangan fruit, Sabah is the only place that I know (please correct me if I am wrong) in the South East Asia region that never stops hollering "Hail, Bambangan!!!". When you want to talk about Bambangan, you have to talk about Sabah. Hence, the title of this post "Think Bambangan, Think Sabah". But you do know that I am being biased, right?

Since we have the same climate, I am sure Bambangan also grows abundantly in other parts of Borneo, like Sarawak (part of East Malaysia), Brunei and Indonesia which make up the island of Borneo, the third largest island in the world. The only difference is that the people there do not eat it as much as the Sabahans do (or maybe they're not even aware of the existence of this fruit). The matured tree has a very big trunk and tall, and during its season, will produce fruits abundantly. In Sabah, Bambangan is very special. It's a delicacy that is closely guarded and taught down to the younger generation so that it can be preserved as our food heritage.

When is the Bambangan season?
According to local farmers, who make their living by selling fruits and rubber sheets, when you hear  it's the Durian season, then you know Bambangan season will follow suit. That is roughly around October to December every year.

Where can you get it?
You can find fresh Bambangan and Pickled Bambangan either at the vegetable market or during "Tamu" time. "Tamu" literally means meeting time. Farmers gather together weekly in one place, the place and time are already fixed, to sell their produce. You can find all sort of fresh produce at the Tamu.

Bambangan Pickling Demo - How it started?
I received an email from one lovely lady, Miss Cheng Yueh Fang, a UMS (Universiti Malaysia Sabah) student from Perak, inquiring whether the homestay operators conduct demo on "tapai making" or "Bambangan pickling" and I replied with an immediate "YES!". I was quite surprise and thrilled at the thought of meeting these young ladies. It must have been due to this post, a culinary event that I have had a chance to attend, that triggered Cheng's interest to contact me.

So, to make long story short, Cheng and her friends decided on the day and time to watch the food demo on how to pickle Bambangan. Cheng and four of her UMS friends are studying in the final year of their food-tech course and Bambangan pickling is one of the projects they have chosen. The other four students are Chang Sook Poh from Kuala Lumpur, Josyan ak Jangar from Sarikei, Sarawak and another two students, like Cheng, also hail from Perak, Ng Jia Qin and Lee Poh Yoke. All of them are in their early 20s.

How do we make Pickle Bambangan?

Ingredients
5 Bambangan fruits (about 80% ripe)
2 Bambangan Seeds (shredded & dried)
Salt

Instructions:
1. Peel off the Bambangan skin.
2. Cut the Bambangan into small pieces. Use a pair of gloves when cutting the fruit to prevent rubbery substance from sticking to your hands.
3. Prepare shredded Bambangan seeds. Take out the soft inner part of the seed. Before you do this, you have to cut/ peel off the hard fibrous shell that protects the soft inner part of the seed.
4. Grate the seeds and dry them under the sun. Once shredded seeds are dried, sprinkle them onto the cut Bambangan pieces and add salt to taste. Then, mix thoroughly.
5. Leave for 30 minutes.
6. Prepare a glass bottle that is already sterilized. Transfer the Bambangan pieces into the glass bottle.
7. This pickle Bambangan is ready for consumption in 1 - 2 weeks' time.


Which native in Sabah eat the most Bambangan and how is it served?
Here in Sabah, we either like to eat it fresh or pickled it. It is mainly eaten by the KadazanDusun people, the biggest indigenous group in Sabah. They eat pickled Bambangan as often as the Koreans eat their Kimchi.

Frequently, it is served with white rice and other main dishes such as meat or fish and vegetable. The pickled Bambangan is sometimes mixed with chilli, soya sauce (we call ketchup) and sometimes with "Belacan", shrimp paste. You can use all of these or just pick any combination. It's your choice!

Newspaper Publications for our "Bambangan Pickling" Event

Daily Express, 11 October 2012

Borneo Post, 15 October 2012

continuation...Borneo Post, 15 October 2012

The Majestic Mt. Kinabalu: Fourth Highest in Southeast Asia

Mount Kinabalu

The tallest mountain in Malaysia is Mt Kinabalu. It is located in Sabah, also famously known as "The Land Below the Wind" as geographically, it is located below the typhoon belt, and it also is part of the Borneo islands. Standing at 4,095 Meters, Mt Kinabalu is not only the highest mountain in the country but also the 4th highest in Southeast Asia. It is home to a rich and diversified flora and fauna which are unique and cannot be found anywhere else in the world. Climbing Mount Kinabalu is one of the most fulfilling activities. Many local and international tourists do not want to miss the opportunity to climb this mountain when they visit Sabah. 

View of Mt Kinabalu from Kundasang

The best Mt Kinabalu view is before 10am on a bright sunny day

Mt. Kinabalu is actually the peak of the Crocker Range. It is a non-volcanic mountain, deemed to be one of the youngest in the world. The wide climatic range in the mountain is the main factor that contributes to the fertile growth of numerous and rare flora and fauna. It is home to more than half of the flowering plants in the world. It has more than 500 species of ferns, 700 species of orchids, and some unique animals that are native to the land such as Kinabalu shrews and pygmy squirrels. It also has the world's largest plant, the Nepethes Rajah; and home to over 24 species of Rhododendrons. Seventeen of the 29 species of birds endemic to Borneo live in this part of the world. The red-breasted tree partridge and crimson-headed wood can also be found here. Mt Kinabalu, already listed in UNESCO World Heritage record, is a favourite destination for both amateur and professional climbers as it not only offers climbing adventure, the wide range of botanical and biological species attract nature lovers as well as scientists from all over the world.

 

It only takes 2 to 3 days to conquer Mount Kinabalu. Climbers do not need to have any climbing experiences. However, it is advisable for anyone, individual or group, before they climb the mountain to plan ahead. They should check the weather conditions as Sabah often experiences heavy rainfalls and also be physically prepared by doing some exercises before the Kinabalu climb. You don't even need a strenuous exercise regime. Just concentrate on being healthy and fit.

The best start for anyone who is thinking of climbing Mt Kinabalu is to sign up for the mountain climbing package with an experienced and reliable tour agency. You need help from a tour agency to guarantee a smooth, enjoyable, and trouble-free climb. The Kinabalu climbing package is usually an all-in-one package which includes accommodation, meals, transportation, park entrance, transfer, climbing permit, and mountain guide fees. Package rate is quite reasonable and can also be customized according to client's preference. 

24-Hours Guarding

Entrance to Kinabalu Park

Kinabalu Park Office - Here is where you register yourself before you climb

Climbers start their Mt Kinabalu trip at the foothills by registering themselves at the park's office. Then they can stay for a night at one of the nearby accomodations to rest and enjoy a full day sighseeing at Kinabalu Park World Heritage Site. On day two, climbers will gather at the Timpohon Gate to start the first phase of their trekking. On the third day, from Panar Laban, they will wake-up at at 3'oclock in the morning and start their journey to the summit so that they can reach on time to enjoy the beautiful colours of the morning sunrise. The peak is at its most exquisite during the sunrise time.

This rare scenery of swirling mists and rich flora and fauna await climbers and thrill-seekers from all over the world.

Please contact: inquiry@kotakinabalutourism.com to inquire about our Kinabalu climbing package.

Leisure Walking at Poring's Treetop Canopy Walkway

I've heard about my friends' and other people's experiences at Poring canopy walkway, how they said it's an experience not for the faint-hearted and height-phobia people. One friend even told me how once a weak hearted lady almost suffered a heart-attack when a squirrel jumped on her head while she was concentrating on crossing the walkway. Before, I tried to imagine and picture myself, tried to feel what it would be like  walking on a walkway that is about 421 meters above sea-level and could feel my hair rising and my goosebumps getting goosebumps. At the time everything about Poring canopy walkway just sounded really scary. 

My friends dared me when we made a trip to Poring but I balked, telling them I was not ready and would rather spend time enjoying myself dipping in the sulfuric mineral bath. But just recently, on a lovely Friday, there I was with my family, wearing a T.shirt and a skirt and carrying a handbag...which makes me look more like joy walking than preparing for a 'live or die' experience. Funny, this time all the scary stories did not bother me at all. I was just, you know, feeling more relaxed and although I was not at my fittest condition (yea, thanks to no exercise, I've gained weight and I panted almost all the way up and stopped a few times, probably every 10 minutes or so, even rested at one of the the gazebos there) I was, I think, ready for the experience amid going there in a very unsuitable gear.

Nabalu Lodge

We started our journey from Nabalu Lodge, our lodging at Kundasang, at about 12.00 noon time. On the way to Poring, we passed by some very well known resorts such as the Kinabalu Pine Resort and Mountain Kinabalu Heritage Resort (used to be Perkasa Hotel), Sabah Tea Garden, the Luanti Fish Spa, Ranau town and we also noticed many new homestays along the way. We arrived at Poring about 45 minutes later. 

The Poring canopy walkway is a visit not to be missed by anyone especially foreigners who are first-time visitors in Poring Hot Springs. Just take a stroll amidst the lush canopy of the Menggaris tree, the tree which is known as 'king of the forest'. The walkway is about 157.8 meters long. It took us about one and a half hour to complete our canopy trip, starting from the bathing center and then back to there.

Signboard...Choose where you want to go

Trek to the Canopy Walkway...fairly easy ehhh

If you feel comfortable trekking in skirt...why not huhu

Beware of any falling things...branch, fruit, animals etc

Menggaris tree

Resting at one of the gazebos

I was not the only one who needed a rest...

Pondok Manggas is the starting point of the Canopy Walkway

Canopy Walkway

We're on a suspension bridge under the Menggaris Canopy

Menggaris is a huge tree...see if you can wrap your hands around it

Yahuuu...can't wait to dive-in the sulfuric bath!!

Of course, when we arrived at the sulfur bathing center, we wouldn't in the world miss the opportunity to dip our achy legs in the hot sulfuric baths. We chose the enclosed bathtub and spent about one and a half hour dipping and relaxing to soothe our achy muscles, also hoping for the sulfur to work its miracles on our skin (they say the sulfur kills all the harmful germs on your skin). The rate is RM20.00 per hour for a deluxe size bathtub which includes a jacuzzi and RM15.00 per hour for a standard size bathtub. It is on  first come first serve basis, you cannot pre-book the enclosed bathtubs.

Enclosed bathtub - standard type

Poring Hot Springs' daily opening hours is from 7am to 6pm. The conservation fee is RM5.00 for adult and RM3.00 for students (below 18 years-old). There is also an additional fee of RM5.00 for every camera and video that you bring with you.

Try Sabahan Rendang Ayam Recipe

Hari Raya Puasa is a very important celebration for the Muslims. This year, 2012, the  new moon was sighted on August 19th. Every year, the sighting of new moon at the end of Ramadan month signifies the end of the fasting season and also marked the first day of Hari Raya Aidil Fitri. Muslims, all over the world, start off their day by gathering in the mosques very early in the morning to perform their prayers as well as paying visits to the graves of their loved ones.

Hari Raya is welcomed with great joy. Houses are cleaned until they're shiny and decorated with the lighting of oil lamps. The young Muslims will kiss the hands of their elders and ask forgiveness for their wrongdoings. They also wear new Malay traditional clothes. Open house, which means the Muslims inviting family members, relatives and friends to come over to their house is widely practised.

In Malaysia, the first two days of Hari Raya is declared as Public Holidays but the celebration lasts for a month. This is the time you can see plenty of traditional Malay delicacies. One of my favourite dishes is the Rendang Ayam. It is basically a spicy dish consists of one whole chicken, slow cooked with coconut milk, spices and a variety of local herbs. For this posting, I like to bring my readers' attention and encourage them to try this Rendang Ayam recipe. It is not very difficult to prepare, the dish is really delicious and can be served and eaten together with white rice or pulut lemang (glutinuous rice cooked with coconut milk using a bamboo), another famous dish served during this festive season.

 Fresh spices and herbs

Chicken, cut and cleaned

Dried chillies

Fried grated coconut

Coconut milk

RENDANG AYAM RECIPE

Ingredients:
1 whole chicken (cut and cleaned. You may remove some of its
skin and fats if you want your rendang to be less oily)
For the gravy: (Blend together)
10 shallots
4 garlic
15 dried chillies
15 eye of the bird chillies
1 inch of ginger
1 inch of galangal
1/2 inch of fresh turmeric
2 lemon grass
Add these after chicken is marinated:
4 cups of concentrated coconut milk
2 pieces of turmeric leaves
4 pieces of kaffir lime leaves
4 tbspns of fried grated coconut
salt, sugar to taste

Instructions:

1. Marinate chicken with gravy for about 1 hour.

2. Place marinated chicken in a pot and pour the coconut milk into the pot. Leave until it is boiling. Then add in kaffir lime leaves, turmeric leaves, fried grated coconut and salt and sugar to taste.

3. Cook until chicken is tender and the gravy is thickened. Serve with white rice or pulut lemang.

Spices and herbs blended together

In my attempt to cook this dish, I failed to include the galangal (lengkuas) as no one were selling it the time I went shopping for it at the nearby vegetable market. *sigh!* It was just one of those days...you know... you don't always find what you want. This dish is not perfect but even without the galangal, the taste of the Rendang Ayam was still very delicious. It would definitely taste even better if galangal was added in.

Yeahhh...Sabahan's Rendang Ayam

The Ramadan Month and Its Delights

Ramadan falls on the ninth month of the Islamic calendar. The lunar calendar is being used by Islam where the sighting of the new moon marks the beginning of each month. Due to the lunar calendar being eleven days shorter than the solar calendar, Islamic holidays "change"  each year. This year, 2012, Ramadan began last month at the sundown on July 19th.

Ramadan is the month where Muslims around the world pray, fast and do charity. Fasting in the Ramadan month means that Muslims do not consume or drink anything including water while the sun is still up. Besides fasting, Muslims are also encouraged to give alms and donations to the poor.

It is the usual practice for Muslim families to get up early for Sahur, a meal taken before the sun rises. After the sun sets, the fast is broken with a meal known as Buka Puasa or breaking of fast. Buka Puasa usually begins with dates and sweet drinks that provide a quick energy boost.

Fasting is one of the five duties of Islam. As with other Islamic duties, all able Muslims take part in the puasa starting from the age of twelve.

Here in Malaysia, restaurants owned by Muslims are closed until at about 3pm, the time when Ramadan bazaar begins. Muslim civil government workers are also allowed to leave their office early, this privilege given only to the female workers, so that they can prepare the 'breaking fast' meals.

The Pasar Ramadan or Ramadan Bazaar are not the same as the night and Sunday markets as the Ramadan Bazaars sell mostly food and drinks for the breaking of fast.

Ramadan ends on the first of Shawal which is less than two weeks from the date of this posting. When the new moon is sighted, Muslims all over the world celebrate Hari Raya Aidil Fitri. In Sabah and Malaysia, it is known as Hari Raya Puasa.

The food sellers, who are given short-term license at allotted spaces by the local authority, usually conduct their businesses at wooden stalls or just using a foldable table and under canopies or huge umbrellas.

Normally, Ramadan stalls are open for business as early as 3.00pm and by late evening the bazaar would be packed with people of all races, Muslims and non-Muslims, all busy looking and buying their favourite foods. It is a once-a-year delicacies and favourite food event not to be missed.

Ramadan Bazaar at Lembah Impian, Penampang

Ramadan Bazaar at open-space near Servay Putatan

Ramadan Bazaar at open-space behind Standard Supermarket, Putatan

Ramadan Bazaar at Sembulan

For the food sellers, some of them being part-timers, it is a time when they can generate extra income for their families which they can use to buy necessities and luxuries to celebrate the Hari Raya Puasa.

From afar you can already smell the inviting aroma of the grilled fish or ikan bakar and the roast chicken or ayam panggang. Some of the dishes, local cakes, cookies and snacks are those that are not easily found in one place during normal days. This is also one of the reasons why Ramadan Bazaar is very popular.

From dates or kurma, you can also find your favorite food, like nasi kerabu, nasi dagang, nasi beriyani or traditional cakes, like kosui, popiah, pulut udang, wajik, kuih lapis, lepat pisang and popular drinks, like cendol, abc, coconut, sugar-cane and cincau.

You can find dishes of ayam and ikan percik, the evergreen Malay dishes like gulai masak pedas, rendang, ikan kari, ikan patin and many other favorite dishes.

There will also be the always-popular light food and snacks like roti jawa, murtabak, noodles dishes like mee kari, mee bandung, mee goreng, rojak and laksa.

For the fast-breakers, food will certainly look extra-delicious after a full day of fasting, and in fact they indeed are!!! And for the non-fast-breakers, it's a time for food celebration!!!

When the Ramadan is nearing its end, you will see more food and other essentials for Hari Raya Puasa being sold, like the ketupat, lemang and rendang.

You can find Ramadan Bazaars wherever there are big population or residents in an area, and they are usually located in open-area spaces (or parking lots) in the middle of towns, residential estates and villages.

Ramadan month is a time of unique events and attractions in Sabah and the whole of Malaysia. Tourists or travelers who visit Kota kinabalu or other parts of Sabah during the Ramadan month will definitely cannot afford to avoid it as it is one of the main highlights in our annual calendar event.


All pictures are copyrighted @kotakinabalutourism.com

Homestay Penampang Showcasing Traditional Food of the KadazanDusuns

One of the major attractions in Sabah and one that has huge tourism potential is culinary tourism. I consider it as a highly untapped niche as it is a unique tourism package and rarely offered since the product is quite new in Sabah. Its marketing is also still at its infancy stage. It is a great way to attract international travellers who are curious and eager to seek culinary pleasures.

There are three main ethnicities in Sabah: the KadazanDusunMurut or KDM (which is the indigenuous group), Malay and Chinese. The races in Sabah have their own distinct identity to present Sabah, Malaysian's Borneo, internationally. Owing to Sabah's diverse ethnicity, it is a melting pot of many unique culinary heritages.

I had a chance to visit a homestay runned by Mrs Mathilda and her family, who lived at Kampung Putaton, Inobong Penampang. On the day my friend, Lorena and myself visited Mathilda and her family, they were expecting three guests, to savour the culinary experience that they're offering as part of their homestay packages. Guests will also be given the experience to cook some of the local delicacies themselves.

Mathilda's house is a double-story house, built on family's land, probably previously built on stilts like most other kampung houses in Penampang villages and then when the family expands and more rooms are needed, the kolong which is the open and airy ground floor, is converted into a proper ground floor with concrete walls. They also have a big backyard with several fruit trees which were fruiting abundantly and barns for the chickens, pigs and wild boars.

We arrived about an hour earlier than their guests. So we had a good chat with the host and even  feasted ourselves on a rather late and delicious breakfast. We then roamed about the place, enjoying ourselves by randomly taking pictures of the beautiful flowers, fruit trees, disturbing the caged wild boars and playing with little Achoi, Mathilda's grandson.

Our breakfast

Jojoba tree

Water Guava tree

Little Ah Choi

Jetropha tree

When the familiar tourist van finally arrived at Mathilda's house, three foreign guests, emerged from the van along with Randall and Danny, two staffs from Borneo Eco Tours.

The guests were from Melbourne, Australia, and introduced themselves as Barb and Megg Ross and Tali, the couple's beautiful 15 year-old daughter. Yes, this was a family vacation.

Randall and Danny took out the vegetable, fish and chicken which they bought from the market (Rita guided them when they visited the market earlier) and laid everything on a table. Without wasting any time and before our stomach croaked, food preparations were immediately undertaken. The Sayur Pakis was unique to the Australian family, so, they were taught how to pluck and choose the edible part of the Pakis besides being told that the Pakis grew mostly in the jungle.

First we need to do the hard work...food preparation !!

The Ross' Family at Mathilda's House

Mary teaching Barb and Tali how to pluck the Sayur Pakis

By looking at the food preparation, I knew most of the dishes they were going to prepare. We would be having the Hinava, Manuk Lihing, Sayur Pakis, Sayur Kampung Campur, Pinasakan, Tuhau, Bambangan, Noonsom and the Rebung for our lunch on that day. The food preparations were done rather quickly as they were several people doing the work and some food like the Tuhau, Bambangan and Noonsom which are Sabah's local pickled food, have already been prepared in advance.

Tali and Barb were given the honour to cook some of the dishes while Megg looked on and busied himself chatting with Randall and taking snapshots of the culinary event.

Tali cooking the Sayur Pakis

Barb posing with Rhododendron flower tucked between her ear

It's amazing to see what culinary interest can do to our lives...one shot for the album!

Finally, the moment of truth...

After all the hard work phewww, foods were finally served...

Traditional Food of the KadazanDusuns

Hinava is raw fish cooked with fresh lime, mixed with shallots, ginger, chillies, salt and shreds of Bambangan seeds. You also have the option to add bitter gourd into this dish.

Manuk Lihing is chicken cooked with Lihing, our local rice wine.

Sayur Pakis is a fern type of vegetable and is usually stir-fried with red chillies and dried shrimps. If you don't like seafood, you can leave out the shrimps.

Sayur Kampung Campur is mixed local vegetable that is comprised of Bunga Kantan, Sayur Bawang and Green chillies.

Pinasakan is fish that is simmered with water and fresh ginger, turmeric, some vegetable oil and salt are added to it.

Tuhau is wild ginger (the one with strong pungent smell) and mixed with lime, salt and bird's eye chilies.

Bambangan is a type of mango fruit, has thick but peelable brown skin and yellow flesh.

Noonsom can be either pickled meat or fish that is mixed with white rice and preserved with Pangi, a natural preservative made from pangi seeds.

Tali who usually steered clear from seafood dishes, this time, had an exceptionally difficult time keeping away from the 'Hinava' dish. In fact, it was her favourite food, the one that she liked the best. She also enjoyed the Sayur Pakis and the Rebung.

Barb and Megg also expressed their satisfaction and complimented on the deliciousness of their newfound menu from Borneo. Mathilda shared some of the Sabahan traditional recipes with Barb. Barb and Tali said they would attempt to prepare the dish when they're back in Australia.

As for me and my friend, the two Borneo Eco Tours staffs and the host family, we too were busy savouring and enjoying our food. To me, it was a rare experience to have one hundred percent traditional food served on my plate.

With good food, good host, new friends and wonderful guests, we were on cloud nine!

Food experience can indeed bring people come closer together.

I find that homestay can give a more real experience, not just in culinary but also other aspects in tourism. It is the best and most relaxing way of learning the everyday lives, culture, language, costumes and food of the Sabahan people.


For more info on Homestay Packages in Sabah, please contact: homestay@kotakinabalutourism.com.  All pictures are copyrighted to @kotakinabalutourism.com